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Wuriyanga Mosque, Garu: The Djenné-Style Mud Mosque of the Upper East

Upper East Region · Garu · near the Togo border

Wuriyanga Mosque

No whitewash, no buttresses, one tower, walls a metre thick. Wuriyanga, fourteen kilometres east of Garu, is the odd one out among Ghana's ancient mosques, and the only one that UNESCO's own nomination singles out as a mosque of the Djenné type. Almost nobody goes there. Right now, there are also good reasons to think carefully before you do.

What you are looking at

Every other ancient mosque in Ghana follows the Sudanic pattern you know from Larabanga: whitewashed walls, conical buttresses bristling with timber ends, and two pyramidal towers. Wuriyanga breaks almost every one of those rules.

It is left in the natural colour of the earth. There are no exterior buttresses. The weight of the roof is carried instead by load-bearing walls about a metre thick and by more than a dozen massive earth columns inside. There is a single pyramid-shaped tower, over the mihrab, and the mihrab itself is not a niche in the wall but a small room with its own window and a door to the outside.

That is the Djenné type, named after the great mud-built city on the inland Niger delta in Mali. When the Ghana Museums and Monuments Board submitted the "Trade Pilgrimage Routes of North-Western Ghana" to UNESCO's tentative list on 17 January 2000, it described two kinds of mosque. As the example of the Sudanic type it named Larabanga. As the example of the Djenné type, "rectangular in plan, without buttresses, with load-bearing walls and a single tower over the mihrab", it named Wuriyanga, near Garu.

Who built it

The village tradition is clear on the builders even where it is vague on the date. Wuriyanga was founded by Mossi Muslims who came from the west, from the area around Bobo-Dioulasso in present-day Burkina Faso. The Kusasi, whose land this is, gave them space to settle, and the newcomers built their mosque the way mosques were built where they came from.

That is why Wuriyanga looks different. It was not modelled on Larabanga or on the Gonja mosques further west. It came with its builders from a different branch of the same West African tradition.

The mosque is generally dated to the nineteenth century. No excavation or scientific dating has been published, and visitors who asked locally in 2018 were told only that it is certainly more than a hundred years old. Treat any more precise date you read elsewhere with caution.

Even the name has a story. It is said to come from the Kusasi word widiyang, meaning "female horse", which changed over time into Wuriyanga.

A mosque that is still used

Unlike several of Ghana's ancient mosques, Wuriyanga has not been abandoned, replaced or pulled down. It is still used for daily prayers. On Fridays the congregation outgrows it: the men gather for the sermon, and the women pray in and around the old mud mosque.

An unwhitewashed earth building is still an earth building. Every rainy season takes part of the outer coat away, and it has to be renewed by the community. Wuriyanga's survival depends on the village, not on its mention in a UNESCO document that has not moved beyond the tentative list in twenty-six years.

All nine of Ghana's ancient mosques

Before you go: the Bawku situation

We will not pretend this is an easy trip at the moment. Wuriyanga lies east of Garu, and the usual road there runs through Bawku, the centre of a long-running chieftaincy conflict between Kusasi and Mamprusi that has turned violent again and again.

For many travellers, the honest answer for now will be: not this trip. The mosque has stood for well over a century. It will still be there when the road is safe again.

Visiting — what to expect

Getting there

From Garu

Wuriyanga is about 14 km east of Garu, towards the Togo border. Take a taxi or a motorbike taxi from Garu for the last stretch.

From Bolgatanga

Bolgatanga is the regional capital and the sensible base. See our pages on Bolgatanga's crafts and the Upper East Regional Museum. The road east runs via Zebilla and Bawku. Read the security note above first.

Where Garu sits

Garu is the only town in Ghana bordered by two other countries: Togo to the east and Burkina Faso to the north. Wuriyanga lies in that corner of the country.

By air

Fly Accra International Airport to Tamale and continue north by road. Current routes on ghanaflights.info. Accommodation on ghanahotels.biz.

Combine it with

Guided tours in Ghana

Wuriyanga cannot be booked in advance. Any visit is arranged locally, and only when the security situation allows. For the wider country, the tours below are bookable in advance.

The honest verdict

Architecturally, Wuriyanga is one of the most interesting buildings in northern Ghana: a living mosque of the Djenné type, brought here by Muslim settlers from Bobo-Dioulasso, and still in use every day. If you care about earth architecture, it is the one that completes the picture that Larabanga begins.

But it sits on the far side of Bawku, and the conflict there has not ended. Do not let a building, however remarkable, talk you into a road you have been advised against. Check first, go in daylight with someone local, or wait. Wuriyanga has waited more than a century for visitors. It can wait a little longer.

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